Ge mig "billiga & bra" tips på vad som skall göras i vinter på min Toyota Supra MKIV TT -97a

Som rubriken lyder:D Ös på med alla möjliga tips!! Är öppen för alla förslag så länge det fortfarande ser ut som en supra i slutänden:cool: Mvh Affe

Svar på inlägget: Ge mig "billiga & bra" tips på vad som skall göras i vinter på min Toyota Supra MKIV TT -97a

Fin Supra btw! inte mycket som måste göras enligt mig då.. Stilren som den är... Jag hade nog kanske bytt bort det "orangea" blinkers glaset till mörktonat/klar glas men det är en smak sak! /mvh soyd

Tackar för detta:) Blinkersen blir ny så fort jag fått tag i någon jag gillar. Blir nog mörktonad + att insatsen i framljusen ska bli svarta:rolleyes:

Ja våra framlyktor måste vi fixa:)

billigt och bra existerar inte i supravärlden;)

Visst måste vi de Ska bara orka ta med mig verktyg ner till garaget:P

Ne inte när de gäller bränsle eller däck iaf

kolfibervinyl på taket... top secret huv BRU kitt..

Tack:) men BRU?

full BPU menade jag....

Vad menas med det egentligen då?

Basic Perfomance upgrade om ja inte är helt vilsen det vill säga du får runt 400-450 hk

Jo så långt är jag med men i "sakmässigt"? Måste ju finnas färdiga BPU kitt eller?

Fasen Affe har du och drazen blivit senila eller?? Svaret har du fått i en anna tråd om just BPU kitt till din supra men jag kan klistra in vad som behövs för att få full bpu. Bpu - Basic performance upgrade * BC - Boost Controler - så att du kan ställa laddtrycket själv * BCC - Boost Cut Controler - Tar bort laddtrycksspärren * DP - Downpipe - Första biten från turbon * FCD - Fuel Cut Defenser - Håller koll på bränsletrycket * Fmic - Frontmonterad intercooler * SCC - Speed cut controler - För att ta bort hastighetsspärren sedan är där lite upgraderingar krin drivlinan också men du hade väl automat på din så det slipper du.. EBAY är din vän när du söker delarna för ska man svensk köpa allt så lär du få ha en redig plånbok.. här kommer mer info om ust Full BPU.. Parts required: Obviously all that's needed to raise the boost pressure is a double decat & restrictor ring (Jspec) or double decat & boost controller (export spec). However, it will not work without further modifications. The following will be required in both models: 1) Aftermarket cat-back exhaust The stock cat back (the pipe after the 2nd decat pipe) is extremely restrictive. In order to allow a good free flowing system this needs to be replaced with an aftermarket system. There are a huge amount of systems available, but any good quality aftermarket system will be suitable for a BPU level of modification. 2) Fuel cut defender The stock ecu will initiate fuel cut when boost pressure reaches 1 bar for a 3 second period. In order to stop this, a device is needed in order to trick the ecu into thinking the boost pressure is lower. (See quick link for further details) 3) Updated fuel pump The stock fuel pump in the jspecs is not considered suitable for BPU level power, the one in the export spec is higher specification and will be suitable. However as many of these cars are approaching 13 years old it should be standard practice to replace the fuel pump. The Walbro pump is commonly used, however the standard pump that comes with the export spec is a better specification and has quieter operation (though considerably more costly). 4) Colder grade spark plug With an increase in boost, a 'colder' grade plug is required with a closer gap. There are two basic options:- Iridium IK22 plugs - NGK BCPR7ES The iridium's will last longer (most people get >10k miles) but typically cost £60 a set The NGK's need replacing around 3k miles, but cost £14 a set Recommended, but non-essential parts: That's it for the required parts, though there are two items which are highly recommended to ensure you can monitor the health of your engine: 1) Boost gauge A simple electronic or mechanical boost gauge can be mounted in the dash to view the boost pressure. An electronic boost gauge is recommend as most will come with a peak hold or even playback function, thus allowing easier monitoring of maximum pressures 2) AFR gauge Also known as Air/Fuel ratio. This has a wideband O2 sensor mounted in the 2nd decat which measures the air/fuel mixture of the exhaust gases. This is very important to monitor, otherwise you won't know if the air/fuel ratio runs lean under high boost (and therefore result in piston meltdown). Though it won't allow adjustment, it will warn you that something is not right if it does go lean. 3) EGT gauge (optional to AFR gauge) Also known as Exhaust Gas Temperature. This has a temperature probe fitted into one of the exhaust runners (as close to the cylinder as possible). It performs basically the same function as the AFR gauge by monitoring the condition of the exhaust gases. High temps (sensor mounted post turbo 950degrees is dodgy, >1000degrees is a very bad thing!) will likely result in engine damage due to lean mixture. However there are some cons when comparing this to the afr gauge: - It is much slower to react - Failure of the temp probe (i.e disintegration) will result in the particles entering the turbos potentially causing failure - The exhaust runner requires drilling and tapping which can result in swarf entering the manifold before the turbo. This could result in damage to the turbo blades. A safer place to tap the probe is in the exhaust or downpipe after the turbo. It will stop the risk of swarf ending up in the turbo and turbo damage in the event of probe failure. There is a downside - Installing it post-turbo introduces such a big and variable heatsink into the equation it's pretty much useless. People take anything from 100 to 250degC off the aforementioned maximum, meaning that your gauge could read 800degC and mean anything from imminent meltdown to running nicely. No-one has put an EGT sensor before and after the turbo and datalogged the variance so it's 100% guesswork, and that's the last thing you want on the ragged edge. 4) Intercooler A replacement or aftermarket intercooler isn't required, however you need to ensure your current intercooler is in good condition and allows smooth airflow though the core. Many of the stock IC's on older cars are now in very poor condition and suffer from corroded fins, if yours is like this it should be replaced prior to going bpu. Källa:mkivsupra.net

Kom på de efter sen hahah:P Men du ska ha tack ännu en gång:) Finns det inga färdiga BPU kitt?

Vad har jag gjort för fel? Jag kanske börjar bli lite senil...

ot: att köra supra e väl alltid fel!!:-)

Hhaha bättre och köra honda civic då eller?

Tips och trix hur man trimmar och stylar bilen själv

Innan du sätter igång att trimma och styla bilen är det viktigt att du har rätt verktyg, utrustning och utrymme. Kan också vara en fördel att ni är två. Oftast är det bra att rådfråga någon annan. Är du osäker på vad som skall göras, kontakta en bilverkstad!

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